the history of bra it is linked to the development of the textile industry and also to the fashion of garments in 20th century capitalism. Since Antiquity, women wore some type of clothing to be able to support their breasts, at least in the Western world.
At the end of the Middle Ages, among women of the aristocracy, corsets were used, a garment that was very tight across the bust, also used for the aesthetic purpose of enhancing the breasts. However, such a piece was extremely uncomfortable and stifling.
To overcome these inconveniences, stylists from some countries started to develop new pieces that would be more pleasant for everyday use, at least for those who could pay for it.
One of the first changes from the corset towards what we know today as a bra was carried out by Herminie Cadolle. She decided to cut the traditional corset in two, giving the first configurations of what would become the first bra. As a businesswoman, Cadolle patented the invention in 1889. The action of creating these patents was common in the origin of the piece.
In 1914, it was the turn of Mary Polly Jacob, a young New York socialite, patenting her creation. Mary Jacob is considered the inventor of the bra, having developed a piece in 1913 to use with a party dress. With her maid, Mary Jacob used some ribbons and two handkerchiefs to support her breasts under a dress lighter than those commonly worn. Despite patenting the invention, she was unsuccessful in selling it to textile companies. Mary Jacob sold her creation to Warner Bros for just over $1500. The company later earned more than 15 million with the purchased product.
From then on, the bra began to be popularized due to large-scale production, the need for a greater comfort for women in their jobs and also as a result of technological advances in the production of fabrics.
In the 1920s, Coco Channel would influence the production of bras that flattened women's busts. In the following decade, filling bulges and metallic structures would be adopted to give the impression of fuller breasts.
With the development of nylon by the American company Dupont, the bra would gain elasticity and strength from the 1950s onwards. This new material also enabled the creation of pieces that sought to enhance the beauty of the female bust.
The advent of the women's movement in the 1960s transformed the bra into a symbol of overcoming the machismo, when a group of women burned bras in the US at the end of the decade in protest against a contest of miss.
The piece continues to be mass-produced and is widely used by women around the world. The capitalist technological development in machines and materials makes it possible that, nowadays, the bra can acquire very varied formats, colors and themes, following the needs created by the world of fashion.
By Tales Pinto
Master in History
Source: Brazil School - https://brasilescola.uol.com.br/historia/historia-sutia.htm