Brazilian cuisine is a rich and vibrant tapestry, woven from the threads of the many cultures that shaped the country. One of the most colorful dishes in this mix is Shrimp bean ball, a cupcake of African origin that found in Brazil, especially in Bahia, fertile ground to become one of the symbols of Afro-Brazilian cuisine.
Recently, acarajé hit the newspaper pages for an unexpected reason: its nomination as a cultural heritage site in Rio de Janeiro. This decision spread sparks of debate across the internet and aroused strong emotions in both Cariocas and Bahians.
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This story is about tradition, identity and the complex question of how culture can be shared or appropriated in a country as diverse as Brazil.
Controversy in the Official Gazette
The famous acarajé, known as one of the icons of Bahian cuisine, is now also recognized as a cultural heritage in Rio de Janeiro.
The measure was made official by Governor Cláudio Castro and announced on October 25, sparking heated discussions on the internet.
What does the law say
According to Law 10.157/23, approved by deputies Renata Souza, Dani Monteiro and Átila Nunes, acarajé in Rio de Janeiro has now guaranteed its place in local production and sale. The document highlights the African origin of the dish and its linguistic meaning, in which “akará” translates as “ball of fire” and “jé” as “eat”.
Last Sunday, the National Association of Baianas de Acarajé spoke out in favor of the law, emphasizing the presence of acarajé in Rio de Janeiro for many years. According to the association, the dish is a creation of black African culture and is relevant throughout Brazil.
Online repercussion and discontent
On the other hand, many internet users expressed dissatisfaction with the new law, questioning the decision and suggesting that the Legislative Assembly of Rio de Janeiro should prioritize other, more urgent. Outraged comments emerged, reflecting acarajé's strong association with Bahia.
In Bahia, the acarajé itself is not registered as a historical-cultural heritage. However, the profession of the Baianas de Acarajé, responsible for the production and traditional sale of the dish, is protected as intangible heritage since 2012, highlighting the cultural and historical importance of the craft in state.